How to Fill Nail Holes in Walls: Fill, Sand and Paint

Taking a picture down and finding a row of little holes behind it makes for the most ordinary home job there is. The trick to hiding them is patience rather than skill: a thin layer of filler, a light sand and a bit of paint will make most nail holes vanish.

I've put together the steps below from Wickes, Polycell and Bob Vila, three well-known DIY guides, so you can see where they agree. They cover filling, sanding and painting, with a few notes on filler types for different surfaces.

What you need to fill nail holes

• Filler. Bob Vila says spackling paste suits drywall and wood filler suits wood. Wickes recommends a ready wall filler for plasterboard, and mortar for brick.
• A filling knife or putty knife. Bob Vila uses a flexible 2 inch putty knife.
• Fine sandpaper or a sanding block. Bob Vila suggests a 220-grit block.
• A vacuum to clear out dust, and a dust mask for sanding, which Wickes recommends.
• Paint to match the wall.

Wood or wall? Match the filler to the surface

Walls in most modern UK homes are plaster or plasterboard, so a wall filler is the usual pick. Wood is different. Bob Vila says to choose a wood filler labelled for your finish: a basic one if you'll paint, or one labelled for staining or exterior use if the wood will stay bare or be stained.

Polycell describes its ready-mixed multi-purpose filler as shrink and crack resistant for interior repairs, and it also lists separate deep-gap and fine-surface fillers. Read the tub first, because each product says what it's for.

Prepare the nail hole before you fill it

Hammering a nail into drywall pushes out a tiny ridge of material around the hole, and wood tends to splinter. Bob Vila says to sand lightly with a fine block to knock those ridges back, using circular strokes on drywall and following the grain on wood.

Wickes also says to scrape out any loose debris and vacuum up the dust so the filler can stick. Polycell says the surface should be dry and free of loose material.

Fill nail holes step by step

1. Scoop up a small amount of filler on the end of the knife.
2. Press it into the hole with the knife, not your finger. Bob Vila says fingers leave a shallow dip.
3. Make a second pass in the opposite direction to take off any excess. Bob Vila says streaks mean you've used too much.
4. Leave the filler slightly raised, as Wickes advises, because it can shrink as it dries.
5. Let it dry completely, following the drying time on the product's label.

Sand the patch smooth

Once the filler's fully dry, sand it level with the wall. Wickes says to wear a dust mask. Bob Vila recommends circular strokes on drywall and following the grain on wood, using the same fine grit as before.

Run your fingers lightly across the patch. If you can feel a bump or a dip, you'll see it again once the paint goes on. Bob Vila points out that some compounds shrink, and the dip may not show until you paint, so it recommends a second thin coat even if the first looks full.

Paint over filled nail holes

Wickes ends the job with paint over the filled spot, so it blends with the rest of the wall. Bob Vila's last check is that the filler sits only in the hole and doesn't spread past its edges, so spot-sand any excess before you paint.

Primer is the one step where guides differ. Bob Vila doesn't mention it, while others suggest sealing the patch first. Check the instructions on your filler pack to see what its maker advises. One tip from Polycell is worth knowing too: touch in nail and screw heads with oil-based paint before you fill over them.

Bigger holes need a different repair

A nail hole is small. Anything larger than that calls for more than one dab of filler:

• Medium holes. Wickes says to stick wall repair mesh over the hole, cut at least 3 inches wider than the hole on each side, then cover it fully with filler. If the mesh shows through after sanding, add more filler.
• Deep gaps. Polycell says repairs deeper than 10mm should be built up in layers, letting each one dry before adding the next.
• Large holes. Wickes says to cut out the damaged plasterboard and fit a replacement section.

Mistakes to avoid when filling holes

• Painting before the filler's dry. Bob Vila says that even "paintable when wet" products are best left to dry so you can check for bumps.
• Using too much filler in one go, which leaves streaks and a lump to sand.
• Sanding without a dust mask.

Before you drill or cut into a wall for a bigger repair, it's sensible to check for pipes and cables behind it. A cable and pipe detector is the usual tool for that. Wickes doesn't cover this itself, so treat it as general DIY caution.

More small home jobs to tick off

Once the walls are looking tidy, other jobs usually come into view. Exposed pipework in a cold loft or garage is a common one, and how to insulate pipes walks through the basics using water company advice.

Share your DIY know-how

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Frequently asked questions

What should I use to fill nail holes in a wall?

Bob Vila says spackling paste suits drywall and wood filler suits wood. Wickes recommends a wall filler made for plasterboard. Check the product label for the surface it's meant for.

Do I need to sand before filling a nail hole?

A light sand helps. Bob Vila says hammering a nail into drywall pushes out a small ridge, and a fine block removes it before you fill.

How long does wall filler take to dry?

It varies by product. Neither Wickes nor Bob Vila gives a set time, so follow the drying time on the pack.

Do I need two coats of filler?

Bob Vila recommends a second thin coat because some compounds shrink and the dip may only show once you paint.

What if the hole is bigger than a nail hole?

Wickes says to use repair mesh for medium holes and to replace a section of plasterboard for large ones. Polycell says to build up deeper repairs in layers.